Other cities have taco addictions, but in Los Angeles " with far more Mexican restaurants than any other county in the U.S. " taco culture is on perpetual overdrive. There's a soft-shell crab taco for $26 at the clubby Arts District roof bar Cha Cha Cha and a $24 caviar taco at Nobu Los Angeles, but also $2 paper-plate tacos just outside your favorite neighborhood gay bar, and everything in between. The city has given birth to Korean tacos, Black tacos, vegan tacos, halal tacos, kosher tacos, alongside an explosion in regional tacos from the farthest corners of Mexico, making L.A. arguably the most taco-diverse city in the world. In Los Angeles, the taco is our avatar. It is who we are. How did we get here?